The Best 100 Trips -INDIA

THE LIST

100 Trips

From grand journeys to luxury breaks, secret hideaways to monumental heritage, from hill to coast, we went through our archives with a fine toothcomb to bring you the choicest morsels.

100 Trips

No, it wasn’t easy. Sleepless nights, caffeine dependency, fistfights, hair-tearing, awful Chinese take-outs even—we braved it all to bring you this hand-picked list of our 100 BEST TRIPS ever. But then it’s not every month that you have a 100th issue. From grand journeys to luxury breaks, secret hideaways to monumental heritage, from hill to coast, we went through our archives with a fine toothcomb to bring you the choicest morsels. There are walks on the wild side too and, to whet your appetite (quite leterally), our most memorable food expeditions. Hot off the press is our photo essay on the storied Miao-Vijaynagar Road, the best trip we hadn't done. Until now, that is. It's been a rollicking journey. Thank you, dear reader, for coming along for the ride. Here's to a 100 more!
Journeys
1. Leh-Manali Road
There are only two kinds of travellers in India. Those who have taken the long and winding road from Manali to Leh. And those who are going to. Although this strategic road is constantly repaired, there are always sections where it is broken or sometimes blocked by a landslide. So an SUV is really your best option. For 473 long kilometres, the road clings, slips, slides, punches and wriggles its way through some spectacular terrain. It crosses four high passes, fords rivers and clings precariously to tumbling mountain surfaces. You can zip through it in two days, but to enjoy it, take at least a week. Stops include Keylong, Jispa and Sarchu. In Sarchu, stay at Rashpian Adventure Camp (Rs 1,600; 9816056115) or Antrek Camp (Rs 1,000; 01902-252292). Full story on www.outlooktraveller.com (Archives/July 2008).

2. Brahmaputra Cruise
To call the Brahmaputra temperamental is an understatement. It changes course on a whim, carries massive amounts of silt and is full of sandbanks, whirlpools and treacherous currents, which makes a cruise on the river even more interesting. The Assam Bengal Navigation Company offers all-frills 4-, 7- and 10-night cruises on its luxurious riverboats, the MV Chairadew and the MV Sukapha. The boats consist of a mere 12 air-conditioned ensuite cabins each, so there is an air of exclusivity. The Brahmaputra is not the only attraction though. Depending on the package, guests can visit the monastic communities on Majuli Island, gawp at rhinos in Kaziranga and explore the old Ahom capital of Sibsagar. The cruises operate from October to April. Tariff: $350 per person per night. See www.assambengalnavigation.com.
3. Jhelum River Safari
The Jhelum cuts a path through the Kashmir valley, making its way from Verinag, 80km from Srinagar to Baramulla. A shikara ride on the river, starting at the Dal lake and ending at Wular lake, will take you through Srinagar with its bridges and mosques, along villages where craftsmen and women produce exquisite pashmina shawls and silk carpets and past the pastures of Mughdamir that stretch along the river for miles. You can watch boats piled high with produce, eat freshly caught fish, accompany shikaris hunting for birds and sleep out in the open. It is a journey to appreciate the simpler life. Yaseen Tuman of Mascot Travels (9419005714, www.mascottravels.com) can put together a nice 5N/6D trip for you. Tariff: Rs 12,500 per person on double occupancy.
4. Hindustan-Tibet Road
Just the names are enough to make some highways qualify as classics. The Hindustan-Tibet Road is one such. The NH22 is an engineering marvel—parts of it are chiselled out of sheer rock. Shimla is an ideal place to start. From Shimla you will make your way through the meadows of Mashobra, the apple orchards of Kothgarh, across Wangtu Bridge, past Rekong Peo and Kalpa, through high-altitude Spiti and finally to Kaza, the administrative headquarters of Spiti. The intrepid can go beyond Kaza, by vehicle till Sugar Point and then by foot to Kaurik and Lepcha, the last Indian picket on the LAC with China. Route: Shimla-Narkanda-Rampur-Karchham-Jangi-Poh-Sumdo-Tabo-Kaza.
5. Ganga By Boat
A journey on India’s holiest river, through India’s heartland...that is what a journey on the Ganga means. During the 180km boat ride from Allahabad to Varanasi, along towns associated with Hindu legends, there is nothing much to do except observe life as it unfolds on the banks and on the river. Watch aquatic birds and the gambolling Gangetic dolphins, sleep on a deserted island in the middle of the river and explore the towns or forts on land if you feel so inclined. Season: November to March. The trip duration, if done at a gentle pace, is about nine days. Shikhar Travels (011-47171000, www.shikhar.com)  can customise a trip for you. Check with them for tariffs.
6. Nilgiri Mountain Mailway
The Nilgiri ‘toy’ train ride is not about getting to Ooty. The journey is the trip. Starting at Mettupalayam, the train makes the steep 46km climb in five hours. Each bend in the track brings vistas worthy of any postcard. You can count the tea-leaf pickers, listen to the rain rushing by and howl through the 16 tunnels with the rest of the passengers. The train leaves Mettupalayam every day at 7.10am. Rs 142 for a First Class ticket.

7. Mumbai-Goa Drive
The Mumbai to Goa drive enjoys cult status. Leave Panvel at daybreak, make your way through Nagothane and Indapur, drive through the ghat section of Poladpur, relish the sight of green hills as you cross Chiplun, zip alongside mango groves in Ratnagiri, savour the lush beauty of Sindhudurg, and after Sawantwadi start humming a tune, for you are just a hop, skip and jump from Goa. Approximate driving time excluding stops: 11.5hr. Just follow NH17. Distance: 579km.
8. Grand Trunk Road
The ‘grand’ in the Grand Trunk Road is quite fitting. Stretching east to west from Kolkata to Wagah, the GTR takes you through West Bengal, Jharkhand, Bihar, Uttar Pradesh, Delhi and Punjab. The drive is not for the faint-hearted, for while stretches of the road are through beautiful landscapes and history almost literally flanks the road in the form of tombs, forts and kos minars, it also passes through the badlands of Jharkhand and Bihar. Besides, the road traverses some pretty densely populated regions. So travel with a sense of adventure but with a foot on the brake pedal.
9. Konkan Railway
The Konkan is one of the most scenic rail routes in India. The 760km stretch between Roha near Mumbai and Mangalore in Karnataka passes through such jaw-droppingly picturesque places that you will be reaching for your camera every few minutes. The railway is also an engineering marvel and the tracks pass over 1,800 bridges and 88 tunnels. Route: (on the Trivandrum Rajdhani) Panvel-Ratnagiri-Madgaon-Udupi-Kannur-Kozhikode-Ernakulam-Trivandrum. Fare: Rs 2,330 (2A)
10. Kalka-Shimla Train
The 106-year old Kalka-Shimla Railway is among the prettiest train journeys in India. The train begins its ascent almost immediately after Kalka. At the leisurely speed of 25kmph, it meanders into forested hills, potters through 102 tunnels, glides across 887 bridges, past pretty villages and quaint stations. There are several trains on the route, with tariffs ranging from Rs 33 to 340. The Shivalik Palace transports six people to Shimla for Rs 4,790, including two nights stay in the railway retiring rooms at Shimla station.

11. Golden Chariot

For many of us the romance of a train journey is unbeatable and if the train is as luxurious as the Golden Chariot then the experience is unforgettable. The Chariot starts in Bangalore and makes its way to Goa through Karnataka on a seven-night tour. Inside the train, there are plush ensuite sleeping cabins, two restaurant coaches, a bar and spa. During the day, guests are taken to various historic places like Mysore, Hampi, Patadakkal, Badami, Shravanabelagola and Aihole. Tariff: $2,450 per person on double occupancy. Contact: 011-42866600,www.thegoldenchariot.co.in
12. Himsagar Express
Every Monday night, the Himsagar Express sets out from Jammu Tawi on an epic journey. It cuts across 10 states, covers 3,715km and calls at 69 stations before reaching Kanyakumari on Thursday night. It may not be an especially comfortable journey and few will find it romantic but surely it’s the thought that counts—this glorious wedding of snow and sea. In these recessionary times, we like to think of it as Bharat Darshan on the cheap. Fare: a paltry Rs 2,405 on 2A.

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Heritage
13. Bidar
This quiet Deccan outpost was once the centre of power for the Bahamani and Barid Shahi dynasties. Emerging from the stark, red-laterite landscape, its ancient structures are in surprisingly good shape. There’s the 15th-century Mahmood Gawan madrasa, its Persian tiles reminiscent of the former glories of this once-esteemed school of Islamic learning and the Sola Khamba mosque. Stunning views and more ornamental period details are found in the palaces of the imposing Bidar Fort. And don’t miss the intricate work at the old city’s still-thriving bidri stores. Bidar is 136km from Hyderabad and can be reached by car or train. Accommodation is limited,so take a day trip.
14. Ladakh Monasteries
Visiting Ladakh’s gompas is a befitting way to absorb the region’s extraordinary landscape. Leh is the jump-off point, from which you can head south to Hemis, Thiksey and Shey, or northwest to Alchi, Lamayuru, Rizong, Likir and Basgo. Don’t miss the charming Basgo gompa—perched precariously atop a dramatic, crumbling mountain—or the 11th-century Choskor monastery at Alchi, known for its exquisite Tibetan art. Other highlights include the 400-year-old frescoes at Hemis, and a 40-feet high Buddha at Shey. If you’d like to stay in Alchi, your options include the Summer Camp Alchi (Rs 1,600,all-inclusive; 01982-227129, 9419269499) and Alchi Resort (Rs 3,300, all-inclusive; 01982-252520).
15. Tamil Nadu Temple Tour
The splendours of Tamil Nadu are many but among the most glorious trips you can make is a circuit of its Chola-era temples. Prolific temple-builders, monuments to the Chola kings’ piety are scattered around the state. One gratifying circuit goes like this: Chidambaram (for the very alive Nataraja temple)-Kumbakonam (Navagraha temples)-Dharasuram (exquisite Airavateswara)-Gangaikondacholapuram-Thanjavur (both for wonderful Brihadeesvaras). In Chidambaram stay at Hotel Saradharam (from Rs 1,400; 04144-221336,www.hotelsaradharam.co.in). Kumbakonam can be your base for visits to Dharasuram, G’puram and Thanjavur; stay at the heritage Paradise Resort (from Rs 3,600; 0435-2416469,www.paradiseresortindia.com).

16. Aurangabad Circuit
A fortuitous cluster of unrelated gems, Aurangabad, Daulatabad, Ajanta and Ellora comprise a weekend circuit. Aurangabad serves as a base and has its own historic treats—the Auranga-bad Caves and Bibi ka Maqbara. Just 14km away, Daulatabad’s spectacular fort broods atop a 650-ft hill, the well-preserved Jama Masjid mosque at its base. The town of Khuldabad is known for Aurangzeb’s tomb, but is eclipsed by the sheer magnificence of the Jain, Hindu and Buddhist rock caves at nearby Ellora. And the lush, ancient cave paintings at Ajanta are only 104km away. The smart Lemon Tree Hotel, Aurangabad (from Rs 3,330;www.lemontreehotels.com) is a good stay option.

17. Heritage Hotels, Himachal
The Himachali royals reinvented themselves as hoteliers and forever redefined summer in the hills. The Taragarh Palace in Kangra, a European-style summer residence surrounded by lush tea estates, is a treat. In Shimla, the charming and eccentric period relics at Chapslee will transport you back to the Raj. And in the mediaeval hamlet of Pragpur, another gem: the lovingly restored Judge’s Court. Taragarh Palace (from Rs 4,500;www.welcomheritagehotels.com); Chapslee (from Rs 12,500; www.chapslee.com); Judge’s Court (from Rs 4,000; www.welcomheritagehotels.com)
18. Kishangarh
Finding a slice of Rajasthan that isn’t overrun by tourists is rare, but Kishangarh nicely fits the bill. The restored heritage hotel, Phool Mahal Palace, was built under British rule and structurally enhanced by successive kings. Other highlights include Kishangarh fort, Mokham Vilas and the charming old town, but the city is best known for its tradition of miniature paintings. Thousands of artists live here, so check out the miniature painting showrooms, commission a painting on your surface of choice, and don’t miss the originals in the palace’s collection. Stay at the Phool Mahal Palace (Rs 3,780; 01463-247405/247505,www.royalkishangarh.com).
19. Buddhist Circuit
India’s, especially Bihar’s, Buddhist circuit was created by Japanese pilgrims. It all started in Bodhgaya, where the Buddha attained Enlightenment under the Bodhi tree, and this is where you too should go first. A lovely temple stands here still. Start your trip in Patna, erstwhile glorious Pataliputra. Stay a night or several in Bodhgaya. Head back to Patna, and use it as your base to visit the ruins of Nalanda University; Rajgir; and Vaishali. Further afield, explore Sanchi in Madhya Pradesh and Sarnath in Uttar Pradesh. In Bodhgaya, stay at Lotus Nikko (from Rs 3,800; 0631-2200700) or Hotel Tathagat International (Rs 500-1,500; 2200106).

20. Jaisalmer
A city that truly lives up to its reputation, Jaisalmer offers the complete Rajasthani-heritage package: fort, temples, lake, beauty. The fort, a site unto itself, is also home to seven important Jain temples that date back to the 15th and 16th centuries—it’s worth setting aside a morning to study the complex geometry and effusive ornamentation of these lovely monuments. Of special note is the well-run Jaisalmer Fort Palace Museum and Heritage Centre. Around the city, check out Gadsisar Lake, the Folklore Museum and the Bada Bada Chhatris. Stay at Garh Jaisal (from $99; 9414149304, www.garhjaisal.com).
21. Hampi
The mediaeval capital of the Vijayanagar Empire is a stunning, surreal landscape. In the early 19th century, historians rediscovered a ruined city as far as the eye could see: temples, markets, pavilions and baths. Declared a World Heritage Site in 1986, Hampi has 56 ASI monuments in the core area alone. The website www.hampi.in is a good resource. A modest stay option is the family-run Mowgli Guesthouse (Rs 1,200 for an AC room; 9448003606,www.mowgliguesthouse.blogspot.com).
22. Bishnupur
The 17th-century conversion of the Malla rulers of Bishnupur to Vaishnavism was a turning point in its history. The city became a major centre of religion, and was adorned with tanks, gateways, gardens—and temples. Crafted in local laterite and brick, the uniqueness of these structures lies in their façades of terracotta tiles. Notable temples include the Jor Bangla and the Rasmancha. Bishnupur is a 5hr drive from Kolkata. Stay at West Bengal Tourism’s Tourist Lodge (from Rs 600; 03244-252013).

23. Vohrawads
The term ‘composite culture’ truly defines the spirit of the fascinating Bohra houses in the Gujarati towns of Kapadvanj and Sidhpur. These gated enclaves of the Muslim community of Bohras, known as Vohrawads, are fine examples of traditional architecture rooted in a regional landscape. A Bohra house combines the Gujarati tradition of exquisite façades of intricate wood detailing with a certain European classicism and the traditional requirements of an Islamic dwelling. The nearest airport is at Ahmedabad, which is 70km from Kapadvanj and 130km from Sidhpur. The best option is to stay at Ahmedabad and make day trips to the towns.
24. Agra
There’s good reason that Agra remains a perennial favourite with tourists, but it may surprise you to discover that there’s much more to the city than its celebrated monuments. Agra’s lesser-known mosques, tombs and houses testify to a continuing history beyond the Mughal era: the dargah of Shah Alauddin Mujzub, the houses of the old city, Akbar’s Church and the Roman Catholic cemetery in Civil Lines. Stay at Hotel Sheela (Rs 400-800; 0562-2333074,www.hotelsheelaagra.com). Full story on www.outlooktraveller.com (Archives/August 2008).
25. Belur-Halebidu
The district of Hassan in Karnataka might just be most famous for being the ideal base from which to visit the heritage sites of Belur and Halebidu. Magnificent Halebidu was the 12th-century capital of the Hoysalas. Just 16km away lies Belur, the earlier capital. People argue heatedly over which is more striking. The Channakesava temple at Belur has a fantastic interior, with every pillar uniquely carved. But the delicate external carvings at Halebidu give it a special edge. Stay in Hassan, at the Hotel Hassan Ashhok (from Rs 3,350; 08172-268731,www.hassanashok.com).

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The Hills
26. Kumaon Village Walks
One problem with hills, you will admit, are the hill stations. Chock-a-block with hotels, guesthouses and restaurants; cars and trucks roaring up the roads, spewing diesel fumes. The guesthouses and homestays in the Kumaon hills in Uttarakhand—village-run enterprises—show visitors the genuine life lived pahadi style. What they offer is simple: spectacular beauty. Silent, deep pine forests, rhododendron blooms and majestic snowcapped high peaks in the distance. Village Ways (05962-251011, 011-64623175, www.villageways.com) offers customisable stays. Indicative rates: a 3N trip costs Rs 16,800 for two persons, all-inclusive. Kalmatia Sangam (05962-233625; www.kalmatia-sangam.com) offers 6N/7D tours for Rs 34,500 plus taxes; includes meals, stay and transfers.

27. Srinagar
Shalimar, Nishat, Chashma-e-Shahi... No place carries marks of the Mughal idyll like Srinagar does. Chinars tower in all elegance, fragrant gardens drug the air and from tall perches, the eye is drawn irresistibly to the Dal lake fringed by mountains. But Srinagar’s cosmopolitan ruins hint at its longer history: the Shankaracharya temple, the Jama masjid, countless other mosques and ziyarats and the city’s old houses that abound from Maharaj Gunj to Ali Kadal. Rent a houseboat on the Dal or the Jhelum, dig your feet into plush carpets, look out on to the water with a hot kahva at your elbow. Srinagar has hotels to suit most budgets. Houseboats are moored at the Dal and Nagin lakes and on the Jhelum river and range from luxurious to basic. Contact: Royal Tours and Travels, 0194-2454947, 2455348, www.royalhouseboats.com
28. Nainital
The lake that gives this hill station its name has now cleaned up its act, and Nainital is welcomed once again into the top-10 lists of hill destinations. The observatory, Mallital Bazaar, Naina Peak and the famous high-altitude zoo are cool again. Wander its charming hill streets, buy yourself some fresh buns, examine the town’s colonial-era buildings, take a boat out into the lake or settle for an hour or two by the ‘Flats’ and watch local clubs take each other on in a civilised game of cricket. Nainital is 315km/8hr from Delhi. The 1876-built Abbotsford/ Prasada Bhavan provides fancy accommodation ($250-395/approx. Rs 12,600-20,000, all-inclusive; 05942-236188, www.abbotsfordnainital.net).

29. Ooty
The Toda name for this high point in the Nilgiris is Othakal-mund or ‘house in the mountains’. It became a more complicated Udhagamandalam before the British cut out the verbal contortions and came up with a rather cutesy abbreviation: Ooty it was called and Ooty it stays. The backdrop of innumerable film shoots, it became embedded in the minds of cinemagoers as a paradise long before India took to travel. It gets bad press now for being crowded but Ooty isn’t just another hill-station—it’s a classic. Tour the Botanical Gardens, hire a horse, visit the Tribal Research Centre, buy chocolate fudge and eucalyptus oil. Ooty is 290km/8hr from Bangalore. Stay at Fernhills Palace (from Rs 5,700; 0423-2443910-15, www.welcomheritagehotels.com).
30. Mashobra
A little way out of the bustle of Shimla, this unexpected haven called Mashobra is the quietest way to enjoy the hills. A clutch of charming cottages let you retreat from the world...some even let you make your own meals and stir your coffee as you stare out at the hills of the Dauladhar in the distance. Mashobra is11km/30min from Shimla on the Naldhera Road. Stay: Forest Hill Villas (Rs 10,000, includes supplies; 011-40533992, www.foresthillvillas.com) ; Violet Hill (Rs 15,000 for six persons max.; meals extra; contact: Prabhdip Singh, 9815442233); Inayat (from Rs 7,000; contact: Dhanu Swadi, 9418022331).
31. Old Manali
Say Manali and you get quite a few grimaces. It is one of the few hill stations the British did not develop: they laid no train routes; they didn’t set up schools and churches or the obligatory Mall Road. Is it the lack of this guardianship that leaves Manali so higgledy-piggledy and full of underbelly-tourists? But we scratched the surface down to Old Manali and found still scope for words such as tranquillity and beauty. Manali is 565km/ 14hr from Delhi. Rockway Cottage (Rs 250-600; 01902-254328, 9816279028) on the banks of Manalsu river is an old backpackers’ favourite.
32. Nubra
The high-altitude desert of Ladakh has its meagre portion of green in Nubra, its most fertile valley. Accessed only by the Khardung La, the world’s highest motorable pass, and surrounded by the imposing Ladakh and Karakoram ranges, Nubra was once part of the network of caravan trails that formed the Silk Route. Remnants of this history—the two-humped Bactrian camels—still roam the white sands near Hundar. Nubra Valley is 150km north of Leh. Several Leh hotels have camps in the Nubra Valley; try Silk Route Cottages in Sumur (from Rs 2,550, double; call Hotel Mogol in Leh: 01982-253439).
33. Gulmarg
It is here, we are told repeatedly—that fabled Paradise On Earth. And crowning this paradise is this hamlet. When Sultan Yusuf Shah Chak, Kashmir’s ruler in the 16th century, saw the meadow here ablaze with wild flowers in spring, he is said to have named it Gulmarg. But this hill station is equally loved for its carpets of winter snow. India’s premier ski resort, its attractions are the off-piste possibilities, deep powder snow and its long runs of varying difficulty. Gulmarg is 50km/3hr from Srinagar. Stay at Highland Park (Rs 4,500-5,500; 01954-254430/4491).
34. Chamba Rest Houses
The rest houses the British built in remote, inaccessible patches of Indian forest must be some of the most romantic marks of the Raj. A trekking circuit of such extant bungalows—all built in the 1920s and ’30s—is an unforgettable way to see the woods of Chamba. Indeed, to see it the way forest officers did back then, touring their jurisdiction on foot and horseback, staying overnight in these rustic dwellings. Deodar, oak and spruce. Birdcalls, moss and hot smoky tea. And the way it was. For permission to stay in Chamba’s forest rest houses, contact the Divisional Forest Officer, Chamba (01899-222239). Charges: Rs 200-400. Meals extra.
35. Mishmi Hills, Arunachal
In the easternmost tip of India’s outstretched arm, the Mishmi Hills lie slumberous under early suns. The river Lohit runs through the valley, the alluvial soil shifts to the river’s whims and the hills ring to the cacophony of over 600 species of birds. The Mishmis themselves have made a fine art of the simple life that has a few staples: bamboo, millet, mithuns and opium. Domestic tourists need an Inner-Line Permit, which can be obtained from government offices at New Delhi (011-23013915/23013956) or Dibrugarh (0373-282560). The best accommodations in the district are still inspection bungalows or circuit houses (Rs 250; contact Deputy Commissioner, Tezu at 03804-223666). See www.lohit.nic.in.

36. Dalhousie
It might not attract the hordes that throng Shimla or Darjeeling but Dalhousie is attractive for that very reason—its untouristed hill-stationness. Named after Lord Dalhousie, the Viceroy of India when it was founded, and discarded by Lahore during the Partition, this resort has a wealth of things to do. Walk around town, explore its stately churches, stop by Snowdon Residence where Rabindranath Tagore is said to have stayed in 1873. Or take a picnic out to the beautiful meadow of Khajjiar (22km). Dalhousie is 75km/3hr from Pathankot. Stay at Silverton Estate Guest House (from Rs 825; 01899-240674, 9418010674), a colonial-style house built in 1937.
37. Malnad
The hills of this tract in southwestern Karnataka are so obvious a feature, they’re heralded by its name—Malnad, truncated from Male (hill) and nadu (region). Malnad is where coffee was first planted in India, and indeed, still is the source of our finest coffee. Helped by abundant rain, the hills are dotted by places that sound as romantic as they actually are: Chikmagalur, Kudremukh, Kemmangudi... This is walking territory: pack a pair of sturdy boots, some salt to stymie the abundant leeches and a picnic to experience your personal version of heaven.Mangalore is the biggest city in the area with an airport and railway station. Chikmagalur has the nicest stay options and accommodation elsewhere is more basic. September to March is a good time to visit, although the monsoon months have their own unique allure.

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Escapes
38. Lonar Crater
Some 50,000 years ago, a rather large chunk of rock came out of space and hurled itself at the earth. The impact was a six-megatonne explosion—600 times the force of our first atomic bombs—that left behind a crater about two kilometres in diameter, with walls over 130m high. With water held in, the Lonar crater in Maharashtra is now a brackish lake and a curiosity in many ways—geologists salivate at the idea of all that alien mass to study and ecologists rub their hands in glee at the unique ecosystem that has formed there. Lonar is 170km from Aurangabad. Stay at MTDC’s Guesthouse (Rs 550/800, low/high season; 07260-221602, bookings: 022-22026713, 22027762), located on the lip of the crater.
39. Raju's Guest House
On the fringes of the Great Himalayan National Park in Himachal Pradesh, on the banks of the Teerthan river in Gushaini village, is Raju’s Guest House. It was among the first of such intimate hotels and it’s almost a byword for its kind of place—off the road, cosy and simply fabulous. The homestay is run by Raju and his wife Lata, and has warm, immaculate guestrooms, filled with custom-made wood furniture and hand-woven throws. Combine tucking into Lata’s home-cooked meals with long walks and generous gulps of hill air and you might just about break even calorie-wise. Gushaini is 550km from Delhi and 40km north of Mandi. Raju’s Guest House (Rs 1,250 inclusive of all meals; 01903-201108, 9418149808).

40. Backwoods, Nilambur
In the tourism-savvy state of Kerala, off-road surprises are a bit thin on the ground. But this homestay—Thomas and Cicely Tharakan’s bungalow—in Nilambur makes up nicely. Nilambur has had a longish affair with teak. H.V. Conolly, a collector of Malabar, established a teak plantation here in the mid-19th century that contains some fine examples. Then the Nilambur Teak Museum leaves you rather comprehensively informed. But to see the tropical hardwood as it was used by the rajas, see their magnificent kovilakams held up by great polished beams of teak. Nilambur is 45km from Kozhikode. Stay with the Tharakans (Rs 4,500/couple, includes all meals and field trips; 04931-200529, 9447748529, www.backwoodsnilambur.com).
41. Chhatarpur
In 1923, a young Englishman called J.R. Ackerley came to India to take up a post as secretary to the maharaja of an obscure principality named Chhatarpur. He stayed only five months, but from his journals emerged Hindoo Holiday—a funny and perceptive account of the Raj. The house Ackerley lived in still stands, albeit as a PWD Bungalow; the palace itself shelters schools, as well as a court of law, a hospital and a supari warehouse. There’s nothing to see in Chhatarpur but then not all travel is about the sights. Chhatarpur is 120km from Jhansi. Stay at Alipura Palace (24km). Tariff: from Rs 2,200. Contact: 011-25885709, 25889516,www.alipurapalace.com

42. Narlai
It makes no very persuasive effort at tourism and it prefers horses to camels, so the small town of Narlai is a bit removed from the popular icons that represent Rajasthan. In fact, the horses of Marwar are legendary for their endurance and their gait; what’s more, they descend from an old lineage—native Indian ponies crossed with Arabian horses with a dash of Mongolian. Narlai is 140km from Udaipur, 160km from Jodhpur. And Rawla Narlai, a 17th-century palace turned hunting lodge, is now a hotel (from Rs 8,000; 0291-5104850, www.rawlanarlai.com) and offers visitors wonderful experiences.
43. The Hermitage, Belgaum
About 45 acres of eco-lodge in a secluded patch of the Western Ghats. Three cottages, each more rustic than the last; a campfire in the centre of the yard and delicious food of various kinds. On the farm, a dog, a goose and a duck, rabbits and hens. And yonder, in the hills, over 280 kinds of birds, 90 species of butterfly, more bats than you could shake a bat at and 32 types of snakes. Also boars, bears and elephants. Trek (if you dare!) to see the source of the Mahadai river or explore nearby villages. The Hermitage is 45km/1hr from Belgaum. Tariff: Rs 1,400 per person including meals. Contact: 9242623020,
www.thehermitageguesthouse.com
44. Diu
It shares its Portuguese colonial past with Goa and Daman but Diu seems to ever elude the spotlight. It has an engrossing history, however. Marks of Portuguese rule abound—in the fortress built by Nuno Da Cunha, in the St Thomas Church that is now a museum, in the houses that proudly wear their heritage—but mostly in the minds of Diu’s people who’re still quite a bit Portuguese. Diu is 495km from Ahmedabad. Stay at Hotel Kohinoor (from Rs 2,150; 02875-252209, www.hotelkohinoordiu.com).
45. Kumaon Rest Houses
Kumaon, the stamping ground of colonial officers and gentleman shikaris, was popular, at least in part, for its collection of romantic, isolated forest rest houses. There are over a hundred such buildings here and the template was simple: lime-plastered stone, sloping wooden roofs; a verandah, three rooms, two bathrooms. Camp Forktail Creek (05947- 287804;www.campforktailcreek.com) offers tours around such rest houses, customised depending on your interests. A 8N/9D tour for two costs Rs 1,18,450, all-inclusive.
46. Shahpura Bagh
All men are equal, yes, but see if you can quell your pleasure at sitting down to breakfast with a ‘nine-salute’ royal family, passing the butter and listening to family lore. Offering precisely that sort of intimacy is Shahpura Bagh, with 30 acres of trees, gardens, lakes. Shahpura is 220km/4hr from Jaipur and Udaipur. Tariff: from Rs 7,700 (in season); includes breakfast and tours. Contact: 9828122012; www.shahpurabagh.com

47. Dah-Hanu
On the far side of the Indus, in remote Dah-Hanu Valley, live the Drok-pa. Burdened by the racial fantasies of others with a reputation of ‘Aryan purity’, these are people rich in their own myths and quite distinct from the rest of Ladakh’s inhabitants. The villages are small but exquisite expressions of a timeless rural aesthetic: whitewashed homes, fields of barley, apricot trees, streams and lots of flowers. Permits are needed from the District Commissioner, Leh, to visit most of the villages. In Dah, stay at the Skyabapa Guest House (Rs 300 per day per bed, 01982-228527, 9419815534). In Biama, Aryan Valley Camp (Rs 500, double, meals extra; 01982-251535).

48. Kolukkumalai Tea Estate
About 35km off Munnar, a small estate pays homage to tea. At 7,500ft, the Kolukkumalai Tea Estate is the highest tea plantation in the world—and the origin of some of South India’s finest produce. Theirs is the orthodox, seven-step process and the estate still works out of a small factory built by the British in 1930. The estate is a 3hr drive from Munnar. The Tea Factory Visit includes a tour of the factory and a cup of tea. Rs 75 adults, children free; 8am-5pm, Mon-Sat; 04546-283563.
49. Bob's Place, Kumaon
A cosy house with 18-inch stone walls, pinewood floors, enormous timbers holding up a wooden roof, fireplaces, food and tea within calling distance and shelves of books... oh, and all this surrounded by the lush hills of Kumaon—that is what Bob’s Place is like. Bob’s Place in Nathukuan is 340km/9hr from Delhi. Tariff: from Rs 3,500 for two with all meals included. Contact: Anand Kumar (Bob), 05942-285510, 9811034861, www.wah-kumaon.com
50. Secret Gardens
There’s no denying the Northeast is a fertile tract. And when you have small pretty inns that make lush overflowing bowers their USP, you simply have to give in and make a booking. The Orchid Retreat (from Rs 1,800; 03552-274517, www.theorchidretreat.com) in Kalimpong has 2.5 acres of terraced gardens and woods. The Hidden Forest Retreat (from Rs 1,500; 03592-205197, www.hiddenforest.retreat.org) in Gangtok has an orchid nursery on the three-acre property.

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Coastal Trips
51. Fort Cochin
Fort Cochin is a living history lesson. Outsiders have been drawn to this town on the Arabian Sea supposedly since King Solomon’s time. The Jews, Arabs, Chinese, Portuguese, Dutch and the British have all been here at some point or the other and they have all left their mark. There are centuries-old churches, India’s oldest synagogue, palaces and spice markets even older than the palaces and churches. But it is not all history here. You will also find little cafés and restaurants, restored heritage hotels, secluded homestays and trendy art galleries. Fort Kochi is truly timeless. Stay at Walton’s Home Stay (Rs 1,200-2,600 peak season/Rs 1,200-1,700 off season; 0484-2215309, www.waltonshomestay.com). Full story onwww.outlooktraveller.com (Archives/July 2009).
52. Murud-Janjira
On the drive from Mumbai to Murud-Janjira, it might be tempting to take the road to Goa. But resist and persist and take the proverbial less-trodden (relatively speaking) road to what was the last stronghold of the Abyssinian Siddis in India. The beach, at 1.75km, may be short, but is pretty and the sea languorously calm. But it is the 300-year-old Janjira Fort, rising ominously out of the sea that commands all attention. One of the most important maritime forts of India, it is believed that Janjira was never conquered, though the Marathas, the British and the Portuguese all tried. It took 22 years to build the ‘indestructible’ fort and it was occupied till as recently as 1972, and though empty now, it remains a proud and defiant fort. Murud-Janjira is 165km from Mumbai and it takes roughly four hours to cover the stretch.

53. Mumbai Weekend Getaways
An escape does not always require putting a thousand miles between you and the big bad city. All along the coastline around Mumbai, the Maximum Vacation awaits in the form of charming little getaways. To wit, the U-Tan Sea Resort (from Rs 2,500; www.u-tan.com), nestled on the crest of a hill just out of Uttan village and offering a breathtaking view of the sea, the upmarket Manoribel in Manori with its large, airy rooms (Rs 3,465 for an AC cottage on weekends;www.manoribel.com), the luxurious The Retreat, Erangal (Rs 5,600 including breakfast;www.krahejahospitality.com). For yuppies there is the spanking new Radisson Resort & Spa in Alibaug with its Thai and Balinese inspired décor (from Rs 6,290; www.radisson.com/alibaugin).
54. Tranquebar
Tranquebar—the name itself evokes images of silent beaches and solitary walks. Its original name is even more mellifluous—Tarangambadi, the land of the singing waves. The two names sum up the place perfectly. In this erstwhile Danish outpost, explore the old colonial structures at your own pace, watch the 14th-century stone temple battle the waves or just sit back on the beach and contemplate the endless silence. With Neemrana restoring three heritage structures and converting them into hotels (Bungalow on the Beach, Gate House and Nayak House), visitors can have a very comfortable stay in Tranquebar. Tariff: Rs 1,000-5,000. Neemrana also manages the budget Hotel Tamil Nadu (Rs 150 for dorm and Rs 600 for AC rooms). Contact: 011-46661666, www.neemranahotels.com

55. Kurumgad Island
If you have had a fantasy of living on a deserted island, then Kurumgad Island Resort is the place to indulge it. Even if you’re sharing the resort with other guests, there’s enough space to be on your own. Located on an island 4km off the coast of Karwar, the resort consists of tents and cottages built amidst wild vegetation. Here you can go on dolphin-spotting boat rides, enjoy watersports, take part in the evening barbeque or retire to a secluded nook with a book. Tariff: from Rs 1,800 per person. Contact: 9844042152, 9448364152, www.thegreatoutdoorsindia.com
56. Gokarna
Gokarna is a little town with a disproportionate number of temples. It is also blessed by a beautiful location on the Western Ghats and is flanked by untouched beaches that drew in the first tourists—hippies and backpackers. The beaches are still unspoiled and upmarket tourists have now discovered them too. SwaSwara is a secluded resort set in 26 acres of land near Om beach. The resort comprises of Konkan-style villas complete with all the comforts you could wish for. Its focus is on yoga and meditation—given the surroundings they’re in, that’s just perfect. Tariff: from Rs 1,200, including breakfast. Contact: 0484-3011711, www.cghearth.com
57. Pondicherry
Pondicherry is two towns in one—the bustling Tamil section on one side and the serene French quarter on the other. It is the French part of town—Ville Blanche—that draws in the tourists. The well-laid out, tree-lined lanes of the Ville are ideal for walking. The beautiful French colonial grand houses, the Aurobindo Ashram, the classic churches are all within easy walking distance of each other. In the evenings you can sit on the promenade and watch the sunset, then amble over to a restaurant for a leisurely ‘French’ dinner. For a spiritual fix visit Auroville, just outside Pondicherry. Stay at Hotel De L’Orient (from Rs 3,000; 011-46661666,www.neemranahotels.com), one of the finest heritage hotels in Pondicherry.
58. Bangaram Island Resort
Located in still-pristine Lakshadweep, Bangaram Island Resort is for those who want to escape the world. Set on a teardrop-shaped, coconut tree-covered island, this is a back-to-the-basics eco resort. Here you will find no air-conditioning, no television, no running hot water, no phones, no room service and no newspapers. But you will find a bar that is open all day, a library and cocktail lounge, tasty food, attentive staff and an unspoiled beach. For activities pick from diving, snorkelling and fishing. But to enjoy Bangaram best, tie a hammock in a sheltered spot and sleep your worries away. Tariff: from Rs 8,500-12,750 (full-board). Contact: 0484-3011711,www.cghearth.com

59. Sindhudurg
Sindhudurg, Maharashtra’s southernmost district, hides in the shadow of her flashier neighbour, Goa. And that is a blessing. A land of varied and wondrous beauty, Sindhudurg has something for everyone. You can choose to doze off to the sound of waves on one of the district’s many empty beaches, or drive up to the mist covered hill-station of Amboli, or tuck into some delicious Malvan seafood and explore the awe-inspiring forts of Sindhudurg and Vijayadurg. By the way, did we mention you will likely be the only tourist during your visit? Stay at one of the comfortable homestays run by Culture Aangan (from Rs 1,800; www.cultureaangan.com).
60. Lakshadweep Cruise
To describe Lakshadweep you have to resort to clichés—sun-kissed beaches, eternal sunshine, turquoise waters. We can go on. To get your fill of the islands, may we suggest the cruises run by the Tourism Department, SPORTS. You’ll embark from the Kochi harbour, sail on waters that change colour every few metres, stop at beaches with powdery white sands, eat fresh seafood, go diving or snorkelling in the aforementioned turquoise waters and wish you never had to sail back to reality. SPORTS offers a number of cruise packages—single or multiple island, accommodation aboard the ship or on land. Tariff varies from about Rs 5,000 per person for a weekend trip to Rs 50,000 for a seven-day package. Seewww.lakshadweeptourism.com.
61. The Beach At Mandvi Palace
It is all about location at The Beach at Mandvi Palace. This tented camp is set at the edge of a 2.5km-long private beach and is surrounded by 450 acres of jungle. Owned by the erstwhile rulers of Mandvi, the camp is a retreat fit for royals. There are just 10 tents, fitted with all mod-cons any city dweller will desire. The beach is mostly deserted, the staff attentive yet discreet; there are horse and camel rides on offer and the Mandvi Palace is conveniently located nearby for a quick check out. Tariff: Rs 12,000 (2N/3D package, full board, double occupancy). Contact: 02834-295725, 9879013118; www.mandvibeach.com
62. Kerala Backwaters
Kerala’s network of lakes, canals, rivers and backwaters take you right into the heart of the state. The kettuvallam or the houseboat is the glamorous way to cruise these waters. You can watch fishermen at work, school kids rowing to school and housewives busy with their chores. But if you want an even more intimate look, why not try the DIY style of water travel? Take the government ferries or hail a passing kochu vallam and skip from one tiny island to another. Whichever way you choose, you would have seen a Kerala that moves to a slower rhythm. There are several houseboat operators. But for a truly memorable trip try CGH Earth’s Spice Coast Cruises. Tariff: Rs 7,730-10,825 (full-board). Contact: 0484-3011711 , www.cghearth.com

63. Barefoot Ecotours
It’s always Sunday in the Andamans. Connect with your inner Crusoe as you set up camp on remote, sun-kissed, silver-sanded, coral-reefed beaches. Go swimming in secluded coves. Walk in hushed awe under a rainforest canopy. Go saltwater croc-spotting in a kayak. Now all you need is a Man Friday. Enter the Barefoot Group, offering a range of eco-tours from Havelock Island. These include competently run day trips as well as overnight excursions. A recommended option is the 2N excursion by dunghi to Long Island and North Passage Island. Rs 13,000 per person (33% surcharge to do the same thing on a motor launch), minimum charge for trip: Rs 32,000. Contact: Barefoot Eco Tours, 03192-282151,eco@barefootindia.com

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The Outdoors
64. Nanda Devi National Park
The Nanda Devi National Park in Uttarakhand has five of the highest peaks in the world, and trekking through the outer sanctuary of the park to Dibrugheta (the furthest point to which travellers are allowed) takes you through some lovely forests. The trek starts at Tolma village, about 15km beyond Joshimath. A stiff 12km climb through birch and yew forests brings you to Karichaun (3,030m). The next day’s climb takes you above the snowline, to Jhandidhar (4,200m). The trail then passes through forests of rhododendron and birch to reach the high alpine meadows of the Dharansi pass, from where you get stunning views of Nanda Devi. Dibrugheta is a further 14km away. Adventure India Tours ($80-100 per person per day; 9837090305, www.adventureindiatours.com) can organise this trek for you.
65. Pin Valley
The Pin Valley, which lies in Spiti, Himachal, is a high-altitude cold desert with very little vegetation. This makes it particularly conducive to sighting otherwise elusive Himalayan fauna. The valley was declared a national park in 1987 and is home to Himalayan snowcock, snow partridge, snow leopard and Siberian ibex. The trek through the valley begins at Mud village, which sits by the Pin river and can be approached by road from Kaza. The trek ends in Kinnaur. Route: Mud-Boldhor-Bhabha Pass-Phyiti-Langbuk-Kafnu. The Forest Department has constructed inspection paths, bunkers and transit accommodation at Mud Farka. Basic guesthouses are available at Kaza, Mud and Kafnu. Summer is best for trekking, winter best for animal sightings. Contact: Director, Pin Valley National Park, Kaza (01906-222263)
66. Lamkhaga Pass
The trek from Harsil to Chitkul over the Lamkhaga Pass is long, difficult and incredibly beautiful. The pass, which connects northeastern Garhwal to Kinnaur in Himachal, is surrounded by a tantalising landscape of snow and mountains, and an air of mystery. The long and, at times, treacherous trek involves steep ascents over scree and ice, and precarious crossings of glaciers and streams. The trail gains over 8,000ft in just a few days—from Harsil at 9,000ft to 17,335ft at the pass. The rewards are many—lush green valleys, stunning vistas of towering peaks and lakes, glaciers and enormous fields of snow. An Inner-Line Permit is required for this trek (available from the DM, Uttarkashi). Rimo Expeditions (0124-2806027,www.rimoexpeditions.com) and Ibex Expeditions (011-26460244, www.ibex expeditions.com) can organise this trek.
67. Chamarajanagar
When the bandit Veerappan was finally weeded out from his base in the forests of southern Karnataka, a treasure house opened up for trekkers. The state’s Forest Department now helpfully organises treks through the Chamarajanagar range of forests. The six treks on offer take one to two days through beautiful deciduous shola forests, grasslands and fascinating ruins. As added incentive, forest guides are happy to share (possibly apocryphal) tales about Veerappan. Contact the Deputy Conservator of Forests, Chamarajanagar Wildlife Division (08226-222059, www.mysterytrails.com). Treks cost Rs 350 per person per day (includes entry, trekking and camping) and Rs 300 per group as guide fee.

68. Rupin-Supin
A 7-8 hour drive north of Mussoorie brings you one of the loveliest areas in the Himalayas, close to the Uttarakhand-Himachal border. The Har-ki-dun valley here is justly famed, but go further east, beyond Obra, and you will find a spot even more magical, the twin valleys of Rupin and Supin. The trek between the valleys takes in the jewel-like Baraadsar lake, located at a height of 4,400m. The Har Ki Dun Protection & Mountaineering Association can provide all logistical support for the trek. Contact: Chain Singh Rawat, 9412918140, www.harkidun.org
69. Barren Island
135km northeast of Port Blair, this solitary sentinel keeps a silent watch over the Andaman Sea, its massive foundations resting 2,250m below the surface. But an exploration of Barren Island and its silent, sunless waters reveals that the island is anything but barren. The darker-than-usual water and unique black sand forms the perfect backdrop for the radiant hues of coral and sponges—and for barracuda, trevally, fusiliers, mantas and reef sharks. The nearest inhabited island is Havelock, 5hrs away. Havelock-based Barefoot (03192-236008,www.barefootindia.com) offers a day-trip boat charter to Barren for Rs 69,500 (max. 6 people). Landing on Barren is prohibited and the boat takes you round the island.
70. Munsiyari-Milam
This four-day (one-way) trek starts with a great view of the Panchchuli massif from Munsiyari. The route follows the Goriganga upstream and then crosses into the lost valley of Milam. Once the summer home of the legendary ‘Bhotiya Pundits’, undercover cartographers for the Raj, the village of Milam is now a spooky but fascinating place. According to the authority who coins superlatives for Himalayan tourism, Milam is officially the ‘highest abandoned village in the world’. Route: Munsiyari-Lilam-Bogudiyar-Rialkot-Milam village. In Munsiyari, stay at the Wayfarer Mountain Resort (from Rs 800; 9810261791).
71. Chadar Walk
At the peak of winter, Ladakh’s Zanskar river freezes over. For the Zanskaris, marooned by snow and impregnable passes, there is only one way to trade—they walk on the river. For adventure seekers, the Chadar (as the frozen sheet of ice is called) has become something of a pilgrimage. A new road being built will remove the Zanskaris’ dependence on the Chadar but the walk will still draw thrill-seekers. The Chadar walk starts from Chilling, 2-3hrs from Leh. Several operators offer this increasingly popular trek, including Dreamland Trek and Tour (from 900 euros per person; 01982-250784, 9419178197, www.dreamladakh.com).

72. Himalayan Horse Safaris
There are few things more romantic than the wild steppe, the wind in your hair and a trusty steed underneath. And if Nitin ghodewala is leading the way, you are in good hands. Nitin Gupta, who runs Dusty Trail Adventures, has been leading horse safaris into the Himalayas for a while now. Several trails are on offer, including one from Naggar to Bijli Mahadev in Kullu.Tariff of the Kullu safari: the 10-day return trip from Delhi costs Rs 50,000 per person. Contact: 9459108691, www.dustytrail.in
73. Kibber-Korzok Trek
This trek follows a traditional trade route. It starts in the high-altitude meadows of Kibber and ends at Korzok, a permanent settlement of the Changpas on the banks of the Tso Moriri. The trail follows the broad valley of the Pare Chu and the marshes and plains of Norbu Sumdo.Dreamland Trek and Tour (01982-250784, www.dreamladakh.com) can organise a leisurely 16-day itinerary for you for Rs 53,000 per person.
74. Chopta Trail
Heaving yourself up the mountain with a rucksack the size of a small person, sleeping with the insects, eating Maggi for days on end: the joys of the trek! Or try a ‘comfort trek’. We’ve tried Countryside’s Chopta trail in Garhwal. You’ll have your luggage carried by porters, enjoy delicious hot meals and even ascend the mountain in a vehicle when your legs don’t feel like obliging (but don’t tell anyone). Cost: Rs 17,450 per person. Contact: 022-24441513,www.countrysideindia.com

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Luxury
75. Ri Kynjai
Built into a cliff that overlooks pine-forested slopes and the enormous expanse of Umiam lake’s waters, Ri Kynjai-Serenity by the Lake in faraway Shillong is truly a world away from the hurly-burly of life. The hotel’s prize-winning design is an explicit homage to the native intelligence of traditional Khasi architecture—from the circular stilts that support the cottages and the thatched portico to the unusual boat roofs in metallic thatch, shaped to stand up to everything the monsoon can throw at them. With inviting red pine-panelled interiors, its own organic tea garden, a spa where you can experience a traditional Khasi massage and a restaurant where you can experience an array of traditional Northeastern delicacies—Ri Kynjai is well worth a visit. Tariff: from Rs 5,000; includes breakfast. Contact: 9862420300, www.rikynjai.com

76. Amanbagh
Known for what they don’t offer—grandiose architecture, opulent interiors, obsequious service, extensive menus with glamorous cuisines—Aman properties have redefined luxury with a philosophy that keeps everything austerely understated. Amanbagh in Rajasthan is no different: vast open spaces, architecture that eschews the typically ornate Rajasthani style in favour of simpler lines in soft shades of cream and pale pink, brief menus that emphasise unfussy cooking, quiet efficient service and, above all, prohibitively expensive rates to ensure exclusivity and privacy—it’s no wonder that these luxury retreats are a favourite among the rich and famous. Tariff: from $550 off-season/from $650 peak season. Contact: 01465-223333,www.amanresorts.com
77. Mahua Kothi
A joint venture between the Taj Group and CC Africa, one of Africa’s largest safari operators, Mahua Kothi is not just any safari camp. Spread over 40 acres in Bandhavgarh, it offers 12 luxurious cottages, their rustic charm in keeping with their environs. While the main attraction is the safari, it doesn’t hurt that this place gives you five-star treatment. With spa therapies, a pool, air-conditioned rooms, freshly cooked meals—you certainly won’t be roughing it out here.Tariff: Rs 30,000 per person per night; includes meals, beverages and two safaris daily. Contact: 1-800-111-825, www.tajsafaris.com

78. Udaivilas
Take a setting like the banks of the shimmering Lake Pichola in Udaipur, the Aravallis as a backdrop, 30 lush acres of undulating landscape that adjoins an equally lush 20-acre park home to deer and peacocks: add to all this the Oberoi Group and you have Udaivilas. Their most ambitious venture so far, this luxury resort is paradise and then some more. With a stunning façade of domes, lattices, cupolas and chhatris, all inspired by Rajasthan’s palaces; vast lawns, fountains and courtyards; rooms with infinity pools offering soothing views of the lake and a spa—Udaivilas is that rare place that makes you feel like royalty. Tariff: Rs 30,500; valid till Sept 30. Contact:0294-2433300, www.udaivilas.com
79. Kalari Kovilakom
In an age when Ayurveda has been commercialised by spas across the globe, it’s reassuring to know there are still some places that allow you to experience Ayurveda in its truest form. Kalari Kovilakom, the Palace for Ayurveda, takes you back to the philosophy’s roots, where Ayurveda is more than just a relaxing oil massage. Here, through a combination of a massages (performed by therapists who practise the ancient martial art of kalaripayattu for energy), yoga, meditation and herbal remedies, which draw on 300 types of medicinal plants and personalised vegetarian diets that stick to the principles of Ayurveda, Kalari Kovilakom aims to truly heal the mind and body. Tariff: from Rs 3,33,800, minimum stay 14 days. Contact: 04923-263737,www.kalarikovilakom.com
80. Oberoi Vrinda
There could be no better way to experience the backwaters than aboard the luxurious Oberoi Motor Vessel Vrinda cruiser. The 3N/4D cruise takes you along Vembanad lake southwards to Alleppey, stopping at regular intervals for sightseeing. Eight luxury cabins each with views of the Vembanad lake; a bar on the upper deck; music and dance performances for entertainment; staff that works with guests at each meal to create a menu—Vrinda offers a kind of luxury that’s hard to resist. Tariff: from Rs 85,000; includes all meals, two-way airport transfers and taxes. Contact: 0484-2669595, www.oberoivrinda.com
81. Kaya Kalp
What Kaya Kalp — ITC Mughal Agra’s ‘royal spa’—especially has in its favour is space, more of it than any other spa in India: 99,000 sq ft to be exact. This includes a pool and an open-air greenhouse that is used for outdoor treatments. Its leitmotif —the anaar—is used everywhere: from design elements such as stained-glass panels and crimson stone to treatments such as the pomegranate scrub. Apart from offering Ayurvedic rituals, the feature that Kaya Kalp is proudest of is the hamam bath—an experience not many places offer. Tariff: rooms from Rs 14,000. Contact: 0562-4021700, www.itcwelcomgroup.in

82. Aman New Delhi
So, what’s another Aman property doing on our list? It’s because the newly-opened Aman Delhi, while staying true to the group’s philosophy, is also a departure from the rest of its sister properties. It’s Aman’s first city hotel, and no, it’s not a business hotel—it’s actually achieved the impossible by offering a tranquil resort in the heart of our frenetic capital. It’s the first time that an Aman has opened its restaurants to the public. It’s also the first time that a Delhi hotel is making an effort to sell the city as a destination by organising trips to historical sites, museums, the Old City and shopping spots. Tariff: from $550 off-season/ from $750 peak season. Contact: 011-43633333, www.amanresorts.com
83. Jiva Spa
Everything about the Jiva Spa at the Taj Usha Kiran Palace is reminiscent of Mughal royalty. Built along the lines of a royal zenana in a calming environment of greenery and water, this spa offers both single, double and royal spa treatment suites, a meditation garden and gym. Surrender yourself to any of their innovative treatments like the three-hour Mangal Snan where the body is pampered with saffron, rose petals and milk or the more vigorous Pehlwan Maalish, each accompanied by soft Hindustani classical music, and you’ll know how good those kings and queens had it. Tariff: rooms from Rs 10,000. Contact: 0751-2444000, www.tajhotels.com
84. Privacy On The Lake
A little enclave of peace on the shores of Kerala’s Vembanad lake, Privacy is exactly all that its name suggests. A boutique hotel with traditional Kerala wooden architecture, Privacy consists of just two bungalows, each with private sit-outs that overlook the lake. And while this place offers a great location, great service and great food, what sets it apart is how it’s managed to creatively use light, colour and space that gives it an individuality that isn’t pretentious. Tariff: from 150 euros off-season/from 220 euros peak season. Contact: 0484-2216666,www.malabarhouse.com

85. Ananda
When Ananda In The Himalayas opened, it gave the words luxury and wellness a whole new meaning. Occupying the space that was once home to the maharaja of Tehri Garhwal, Ananda is regarded as India’s first and only world-class spa destination. Its focus is unwaveringly on health and well-being alone, with Ayurveda as its speciality. Not only does its 21,000 sq ft spa building offer over 79 beauty treatments including Swedish and Thai massages, reflexology, water therapy and even health menus with guidance on nutrition—Ananda is designed to make everything beautiful. Tariff: from Rs 14,500. Contact: 01378-227500, www.anandaspa.com

86. Visalam
Some of the finest homes built in India during the early- to mid-20th century came from the Chettiars, Chettinad’s most affluent business community. Visalam, set in a Chettinad village, gives you a glimpse into how these people lived—a grand 72-year-old Chettiar house, which has been restored to its original state. Tariff: from Rs 5,625; includes breakfast. Contact: 0484-3011711, www.cghearth.com
87. 360o Leti
If you want to really get away from it all, look no higher than 360o Leti. Perched at 2,200m in Kumaon, it’s one of the most improbable luxury resorts around. The aesthetic is minimalist, with no plasma TV, fancy menu or even room service. This isn’t to say that the cottages are short of comfort—with fireplaces, sheepskin throws and elegant teak- and brass-lined bathrooms and views that are nothing short of spectacular, Leti offers a very individual kind of luxury. Tariff: $540 per person per night, all-inclusive; minimum stay 3 nights. Contact: 0124-4563899, www.shaktihimalaya.com

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Moveable Feasts
88. Kashmiri Wazwan
If you know only one thing about Kashmiri food, it’s probably the word wazwan—that splash of up to 36 courses that serves as a wedding banquet. The extensiveness of this veritable feast isn’t the only thing that defines this centuries-old cuisine: not less than at least half these courses are meat-based, each distinct in flavour and preparation. Travellers to India’s most northerly state will in fact encounter two cuisines: one influenced by the Brahmanical traditions of the Kashmiri Hindus, and the other a proudly Muslim cuisine, which carries the mark of various Central Asian cultures that followed Timur’s campaigns. Part of the culinary experience is going out to the Dal lake early in the morning to the floating vegetable markets. In Srinagar: Mughal Darbar and Ahdoos on Sherwani Road; Ruby on Lambert Lane.

89. Parsi Platter
When the Zoroastrians arrived 1,000 years ago from Persia on the shores of Gujarat, they adopted not only its language and saris, but also its cooking techniques and ingredients. Local spices transformed the bland Persian pulao, desserts employed rosewater for flavouring and the Irani meat and lentil dish benefitted from the copious vegetables available to form dhansak, a dish now synonymous with Parsi cuisine. Today, some of the best examples of this cross-cultural cuisine can be sampled in Mumbai. Britannia Stores and Restaurant for berry pulao, sali boti and fried Bombay duck (022-22615264); Paradise for dhansak and kid gosht.

90. Pushkar Fare
With its glittering lake and grand Rajasthani architecture, it’s no wonder that the stunning desert city of Pushkar has become a favourite with international travellers. This colonisation by the backpackers has given rise to a distinct gastronomic culture that caters to the foreign visitor. There are German bakeries, Hebrew menus offering everything from gado gado to the Arab spice za’atar for your lebeneh, pastas flavoured with curry patta, hummus partnered with naan, enchiladas with a cumin-laden saag, zucchini daal... A cuisine born out of multiple interpretations of multiple cuisines to comfort the homesick traveller. And everything’s vegetarian! Moon Dance for its honey nut cake and pastas; Baba for its zive (0145-2772858).

91. Gujarati Food
Carnivores may scoff at Gujarat’s vegetarian cuisine, but a trip to Ahmedabad is bound to make them reconsider. For the uninitiated, Agashiye and Vishalla restaurants offer the best introduction to this subtle, delicate cuisine. Here, you realise that Gujarati food isn’t restricted to the ubiquitous dhokla and khandvi. Neither does its flavour come purely from an overgenerous hand of sugar. Gujarati cooking also has a taste for sesame seeds and peanuts, for asafoetida and mustard seeds, whole red chillies and curry leaves. Agashiye for its batata shaak, kadhi and rotlis (079-25506946) and Vishalla for its thalis (26602422).
92. Royal Cuisine Of Sailana
Michelin chefs can have their foie gras and Beluga caviar but there’s nothing quite like eating food cooked by a maharaja. In Rajasthan’s Surajgarh Fort, HRH Vikram Singh of Sailana has revived the secret recipes of his royal house and presents them in an elaborate banquet that evokes the grandeur of an era bygone. Feast, as the maharajas did, on meat cooked in sandalwood essence, mutton dahi badas, lauki ka halwa, kheer made with fresh rose petals—rare dishes and an even rarer experience that you won’t get anywhere else. Shekhawati, Rajasthan (011-25889516, www.surajgarh.com).

93. Chettinad
Say the word Chettinad and the first thing that comes to mind is food. Not the place with its magnificent palaces and mansions or its business-savvy community. It’s the cuisine—spice-laden and rich, but never too fiery or oily. On the outside, Chettinad cuisine may seem no different from its other South Indian siblings, but dig a little deeper and you’ll notice distinctive variations that set it entirely apart. Partake of a typical Chettinad meal and you’ll see it won’t have more than three fried items and one meat item; its side dishes will always be in odd numbers; that colour is important. Karaikudi: The Bangala for authentic Chettinad food served on banana leaves (04565-220221, www.thebangala.com).
94. Southern Comfort
Imagine a place where you can savour Kongunad, Chettinad, Arcot, Andhra, Hyderabadi, Mappila, Udupi, Travancore, Syrian and many more regional speciality South Indian cuisines. That place is Chennai. From the traditional Tamilian idli-vada tiffin and the perfectly crisp karimeen fry of Kerala to Andhra’s spicy drumstick mutton curry and Udupi favourites such as bise bele bath, medu vada and diamond masala dosas—there’s more than one restaurant for each cuisine. And if you’re pressed for time, look no further than Dakshin at Chennai’s ITC Park Sheraton, a restaurant that allows you to sample a variety of rural dishes from all the four states of South India. Dakshin (044-24994101).
95. Goan Flavours
A visit to Goa is a culinary experience that’s hard to match. Four and a half centuries of Portuguese rule have resulted in a cuisine infused not only with Iberian flavours, but also with those from Portuguese colonies in Africa, Malaysia, Latin America and Arab countries. Today, while Goa’s shack-lined beaches are gaining as much popularity for offering every conceivable international cuisine from Japanese to Greek as they are for their moonlit parties, its indigenous flavours—spice-laden, aromatic and earthy—continue to reign supreme. O’Cozinheiro close to Panjim, for its sorpotel, sannas and seafood (0832-2464737); Longuinhos in Margao for its chorizo-and-eggs breakfast (2739908).

96. Mappila Cuisine
Many great cuisines owe their creation to a meeting of cultures. So it is with Mappila—the cuisine of Kerala’s Muslim community. The Arabs came to Kerala’s coast for its spices, and brought with them their Islamic culture. As a strong Muslim settlement established itself on the coast, a distinct cuisine evolved that drew heavily on ingredients and cooking styles from both local and Arab cultures without bearing any resemblance to its predecessors. The best place to acquaint yourself with Malabar Muslim food is Calicut. It’s spicier than West Asian food, but never overpoweringly so, several of the breads are rice-based, and ghee rather than the popular coconut oil is used for its mild, yet rich flavour. Paragon for meen polichathu (0495-4024326); Zain’s Hotel for biriyani (2366311).

97. Nawabi Feast
Even those unfamiliar with Lakhnavi or Awadhi cuisine would have heard of its biryani—meat, stock and rice fragrant with spices filled in an urn, its edges sealed with dough, and left to simmer for hours over burning charcoal. Influenced by the Mughal style of cooking, this largely meat-based cuisine forms an integral part of Lucknow’s culture—one that still bears the stamp of its royal and aristocratic past. Today, in the labyrinthine lanes of the old city of Lucknow, descendants of the cooks from the royal kitchens still prepare wedding banquets replete with kababs, qormas, pulaos and speciality breads. Mohd Idris for its mutton biryani; Rahim for its sheermal and kulchas.
98. ILish
For Bengalis, the magic of the monsoon in Kolkata isn’t only about the rains, it’s also about a certain culinary treat that they bring with them—plump, butter-textured ilish. While purists argue that finer specimens can be found across the border in Bangladesh, a trip to this country in search of ilish could prove futile—the best stuff is all exported to Kolkata, among other places. Back in Kolkata, poor packaging renders Bangladeshi ilish chewy when cooked, but its own ilish, while less intense in flavour, offers a far silkier texture. Fried crisp and eaten with rice, steamed in banana leaves, cooked in milk and mustard oil—no fish is prepared in more ways than ilish. 6 Ballygunge Place for its doi and bhapa ilish (033-24603922); Tero Parbon for its 15-item ilish menu (24632016).
99. Tibetan
When the Dalai Lama sought refuge in Dharamsala, not only did thousands of Tibetans find a new home—their cuisine did too. Some of the best examples of Tibetan food can be found in McLeodganj, India’s Little Lhasa, where scores of restaurants set up by Lhasa’s elite serve this cuisine in its truest form. Yak features heavily in Tibetan kitchens and is probably the most exotic ingredient employed. But that is the magic of Tibetan cuisine—where humble vegetables such as the cabbage and potato combine with simple spices like garlic and ginger and transform into some of the most spectacularly flavoursome dishes known to the palate. Chonor House for Tibetan bobi and chang (01892-221006).
100. Bunt Food
Travel to the western shores of South India and you’ll encounter an enterprising community of landowners called Bunts, natives of a strip of coast that stretches southwards from Kundapura in Karnataka to Kasargod in Kerala. The food of these people is a zestful fare: drenched in coconut, spiced with locally grown cinnamon, cumin, red chilli and further flavoured with tamarind and onte puli (a native sour fruit). While restaurants have popularised only a handful of dishes such as the translucent neer dosa, the best of this cuisine can actually be found in traditional Bunt homes. What’s more, the eating habits of these people vary with every season, resulting in a cuisine so rich in diversity that even a year may not be enough to understand it.Mangalore: Anupama for kane fry (0824-2443449). Bangalore: Kudla for moode and marvai sukka combination (080-43504350).